UPDATE (posting on behalf): Matthew Brennan made it to 28,000 ft on Mount Everest. Due to crowds, weather and exhaustion this is where he turned around to descend from the mountain.
I think we can all agree we are extremely proud of Matthew at his courage and persistence. We all wish you a safe travel back home and cannot wait to hear about your journey.
Truly an inspiration ?
EDITOR’S NOTE:
Due to the nature of following Brennen’s climb, both his Alpine Ascents Team and Loveland Magazine were relying on audio dispatches from the lead climbers. We reported as they did yesterday that the “Team” had made the summit. The dispatch did not say at the time however what we now have learned. When Brennan reached 28,000 ft on Mount Everest, “Due to crowds, weather and exhaustion this is where he turned around to descend from the mountain.”
Mt Everest, Nepal, China – Team leader, Ben Jones reported today that the Alpine Ascents team, including Loveland, Ohio resident Matt Brennan reached the summit of Mount Everest today May 23rd at 11:15 AM Nepal time (1:30 AM, Eastern Time*).
Jones later reported that the team safely reported back to the South Col. The South Col is the sharp-edged col between Mount Everest and Lhotse, the highest and fourth highest mountains in the world.
Photo from the Facebook Page of Lakpa Rita SherpaHere is the entire summit team before the final push – minus Lakpa Rita, who stayed at Basecamp keeping tabs on the progress. From the Facebook Page of team leader Ben Jones
Everest has always been the dream for Loveland resident of 26 years, Matt Brennan. This was the 2nd time he attempted the 80-day climb that has only been completed by about 4,000 people in history. Brennan was the first second in the Cincinnati area to make the trek.**
Brennan’s long time goal was to climb the “Seven Summits” – the tallest mountains on each of the seven continents. He’s conquered Mt. Aconcagua, Mt. McKinley, Mt. Kilimanjaro, Mt. Elbrus, and Denali. Less than 500 people have completed the challenge, and less than 150 Americans have summited all seven. Last December he climbed to the summit of Mt. Vinson in Antartica. And now Everest!
Read more about Mt. Everest, the Earth’s highest mountain above sea level (elevation of 8,848 m (29,029 ft).
For reference Loveland is 482′ above sea level and Denver’s Mile High Stadium is – you guessed, 5,280′. Brennan climbed 28,547 ‘ (5.41 miles) higher than his hometown.
*Why is Kathmandu time 15 minutes different?
More significantly, it is 15 minutes ahead of Indian Standard Time. And that sets us apart, because it is the only time zone in the world that is only 15 minutes different than that of an adjacent country.
** Barry Chapman Bishop (January 13, 1932 – September 24, 1994[1]) was an American mountaineer, scientist, photographer and scholar. With teammates Jim Whittaker, Lute Jerstad, Willi Unsoeld and Tom Hornbein, he was a member of the first American team to summit Mount Evereston May 22, 1963.
Cincinnati’s Greatest/Bravest Athlete is from Loveland, Ohio
Mt. Everest – Everest has always been the dream for Loveland resident of 26 years, Matt Brennan. He is currently trying for the 2nd time to complete the 80-day climb that has only been completed by about 4,000 people in history. Brennan would be the first in the Cincinnati area to make the trek.
Brennan would be the first in the Cincinnati area to make the trek.
Brennan has a goal of climbing the “Seven Summits” – the tallest mountains on each of the seven continents. He’s conquered Mt. Aconcagua, Mt. McKinley, Mt. Kilimanjaro, Mt. Elbrus, and Denali. Less than 500 people have completed the challenge, and less than 150 Americans have summited all seven. Last December he climbed to the summit of Mt. Vinson in Antartica.
1. Mount Everest
Known as Sagarmatha in Nepal and Chomolungma in Tibet, the western world knows the tallest mountain as Everest. Named after Edmund Hillary – the first confirmed climber to reach the peak in 1953, the mountain used to be called simply Peak XV. Accompanied by a local Sherpa Tenzing Norgay, it took the two men a total of seven weeks to summit.
“I dreamed of this as a kid. I had posters on my wall of Mt. Everest as a kid. I’ve dreamed about it, so the opportunity to climb it is really quite emotional,” Matt Brennan told Loveland Magazine in March of 2018 during his 1st Everest expedition. Brennan explained that if something unfortunate happens above 21,000 feet, it could very well mean death. Something like 1.5% of Everest climbers die. It’s not uncommon to see corpses along a trek.
The thousands of hours of training and years of work lead up to one potential 5.5 mile-high peak.
On March 30 all of Matt’s team of 11 climbers had arrived in Kathmandu to begin their journey to the Everest summit.
On April 8 Brennan arrived at the Everest base camp at Lobuche and moved into his tent – His home for the next 7 weeks. He wrote on Facebook, “We have our Puja ceremony tomorrow asking the mountain for permission to climb and it looks like we will tentatively head up the mountain for our first rotation on April 19. All good. #unfinishedbusiness.” Lobuche (or Lobuje) is a small settlement near Mount Everest in the Khumbu region of Nepal.
May 5, 2019 – Tough post today. I stood about in this spot last year giving a shout out to my niece Janie Bordinhao who was battling cancer. At age 26. On November 1, 2018, Janie was dubbed “cancer free” and we had a ceremony with family and friends to “ring the bell” and celebrate. Sadly the cancer returned aggressively and she lost her battle on January 15, 2019. We lost an angel. I grieve for my sister Ellen, her husband Celso and sons Jansen and Jeff. I will never understand why the good Lord needed her more than the countless people whose life she touched in such a short time and the future generations of children who she looked forward to dedicating her career to. Just like her mom. This shirt is going to the top with me and I plan on kissing the sky. I’ll be there soon Precious Janie. #Janiestrong, #nobodyfightsalone, #likeineededadditionalmotivation#unfinishedbusiness. ??
Hello from basecamp. We have been spending the last few days on acclimatization “hikes” up to Pumori Camp 1 at 18,500’ and enjoying the views of Everest and the Khumbu Valley. We are fairly well rested now and it looks like rotation 2 has been pushed back to May 5 or 6. This is in part due to an impending weather issue but also an attempt to avoid other teams on the mountain. It’s a strategy game right now. The lines have not yet been fixed to the summit so nobody has “summited” Everest this year from the south side. That’s likely to change in the next week to 10 days – at least we hope.
Until then we’re hanging in basecamp, eating 3 meals a day, and spending 4 hours a day hiking/climbing in the worlds greatest mountain range. Not bad. #unfinishedbusiness.
Matt Brennan of Cincinnati and Mount Everest April 20 at 1:05 AM · “Most don’t realize that there are no roads in the Khumbu valley. I haven’t seen a vehicle in three weeks. Supplies are brought here in one of three ways-1) on a yak/donkey 2) on someone’s back or 3) by helicopter. So literally everything you see was brought in the Valley and most likely by a porter. I call the Khumbu the “helicopter highway” because when the skies are clear they are landing helicopters every few minutes right over your head- dropping off base camp supplies, picking up sick or hurt climbers/trekkers, removing refuse, etc. It’s an impressive sight watching the helicopters navigate the Valley.” Matt Brennan of Cincinnati and Mount Everest April 19 at 5:17 PM · “The Khumbu icefall is no joke. It’s 6+ hours of hard work and scary crevasses. I’m not lying when I say that this place makes me nervous. Be glad to get all the way through it and put 1 of 6 times we have to go through this area behind me. #unfinishedbusiness.”
Ben Jones · April 16 · “Final day of ladder practice in the Khumbu today. Warm, sunny weather but looking like snow for a couple days ahead. @alpineascents #everest2019 #everest #nepal #7summits #jacksonhole — in Nepal.”
Read about Brennan’s first attempt to conquer Everest:
Nerf football defeats Loveland Everest climber Matt Brennan
“I WAS IN THE GREATEST CLIMBING ARENA IN THE WORLD. I CLIMBED UP THAT MOUNTAIN, I JUST DIDN’T MAKE IT TO THE TOP”
by Sam Smith
Loveland, OH- For Loveland resident, business owner, and mountaineer Matt Brennan, failure is just another step to greater success. On March 25th, Brennan set out with one goal: to summit the world’s tallest mountain. Through a nearly lifetime of training and months of rigorous preparation, Brennan attempted what no other Cincinnati-area resident had. Although he didn’t reach the top (due to an injury) he plans to utilize his defeat in order to push himself to a new height next year, when he will attempt again. Read on…
They lie frozen in time, thousands of metres above sea level. The grim death toll on Everest is becoming impossible to ignore, says Rachel Nuwer.
“But when I say our sport is a hazardous one, I do not mean that when we climb mountains there is a large chance that we shall be killed, but that we are surrounded by dangers which will kill us if we let them.”
George Mallory, 1924
No one knows exactly how many bodies remain on Mount Everest today, but there are certainly more than 200. Climbers and Sherpas lie tucked into crevasses, buried under avalanche snow and exposed on catchment basin slopes – their limbs sun-bleached and distorted. Most are concealed from view, but some are familiar fixtures on the route to Everest’s summit. Read the full article at BBC Future…
“To have these goals and achieve that goal– it’s a really special time and a feeling like no other to stand on top of Antarctica”
by Sam Smith
One of the most desolate and unforgiving places on earth, Mt. Vinson towers an imposing 16,050 feet above ice, snow, wind and cold so harsh that nothing can survive. It is truly one of the most inhospitable places on the planet, with the nearest penguin seven hundred miles away. Mt. Vinson, also known as Vinson Massif, is the tallest peak in Antarctica and has only been summited by 1,200 climbers. It threatens mind and body alike.
For Loveland resident Matt Brennan, Vinson is now in the rearview. After 30 days in Antarctica fraught with delays, struggles and ultimately triumphs, he reached the tallest point in Antarctica on December 10. Brennan has returned to Ohio with all ten fingers (mostly intact) in time to prepare for his return to Everest in only a few months.
Located 660 nautical miles from the South Pole, Mt. Vinson is the highest peak in Antarctica and one of the renowned Seven Summits— the tallest mountains on each continent. Less than 500 people have completed the Seven Summits challenge, and less than 150 Americans have summited all seven. Loveland resident, philanthropist and businessman Matt Brennan has now climbed five of the famed Seven Summits, with the tallest, Everest ahead. His last peak will be Mount Kosciuszko, a day-hike in Australia which he plans to surmount with his family. He has tackled some of the most dangerous and grueling summits in the world.
Guide David Hahn (left) and Loveland Resident Matt Brennan (right) pose for a selfie in Antartica
Lead by one of the world’s most renowned climbers, David Hahn, Brennan and a team of climbers (including famed explorer and author Eric Larson and record-holding fastest solo trekker to from the last degree to the South Pole) set off in November of 2018. It was Hahn’s thirty-eighth summit of Mt. Vinson. The climbers flew from port city, Punta Arenas, to Union Glacier where harsh weather kept them anxious and at bay. Eventually, by Twin Otter bush plane, the climbers approached Mt. Vinson.
Matt Brennan at the Union Glacier camp
Extreme winds, an average temperature of -20°F and constant sunlight through the night forced Brennan and peers to adapt. Water froze quickly and climbers were forced to keep bottles warm with body heat, and manage once they inevitably became ice. The first two hours of each day consisted of rotating everything that had frozen (food, sunscreen, water, toothpaste, climbing gear etc.) until they thawed. The total whiteness, fog and lack of features warped and erased all depth perception, making distances challenging to judge. One night, winds knocked over thirteen tents forcing climbers to cram into tents together until they could set up replacements. Brennan said that the wind and frigid temperatures on Vinson Massif were so extreme it could cause frostbite in seconds. One climber had to turn back upon the first summit attempt, costing an entire day of climbing for the whole team. Due to weather setbacks, the seven-to-ten day climb became a fourteen-day climb.
“On all these big mountains the mental aspect plays a huge part. If you don’t deal with it, it’ll eat you alive,” Brennan explained in a phone interview with Loveland Magazine.
Matt Brennan in his tent
However, on the eleventh day, the team eventually overcame the extreme conditions and summitted on December 10th after a ten-hour round-trip hike. Brennan described an intense feeling of accomplishment and an outburst of emotion:
“There’s so much that goes into summiting, from the training to the logistics to just getting there to the physical aspect to staying healthy and everything else that gets you to the top and when you summit, it’s the culmination of all those things. To have these goals and achieve that goal– it’s a really special time and a feeling like no other to stand on top of Antartica. You’ve dreamed about it, you’ve read about it, you’ve talked about it and here you are. It’s an amazing feeling.”
At the tallest point in Antarctica in the -35°F cold with a panoramic view of stone and snow, Matt Brennan had made it– he had seen the dream and conquered it. The only task left was return and sixteen days in tents at Union Glacier waiting for a plane due to inclement weather.
Matt Brennan stands on top of Mt. Vinson
Everyone on the climb descended with frostbite– Brennan ended up with nerve damage in seven fingers. He sustained permanent damage and will have to cope with an injured left hand for the rest of his life. At Union Glacier, frostbite experts waited for the climbers. Brennan recounted a conversation with one of the medical experts:
Brennan: I’ve got to get this fixed, I’m going to Everest.
Doctor: Uh, I don’t know.
Brennan: Well, I don’t have a choice. I’m going to Everest.
Doctor: I’m going to ask you a question: are you willing to lose a finger on Everest?
Brennan:Well, will I make it or not? Because I’m willing to give one up if I make it, but I don’t want to give one up and fail.
Matt Brennan takes a very cold selfie
In just three months, Brennan will attempt Everest again. Last March the Cincinnati adventurer was forced to turn back during his first stab at the Canopy of the World due to an injury. However, it has only given him a stronger resolve to reach for new heights. Through funding by a local investment firm, Horter Investments, he will continue to chase the ultimate goal of the Seven Summits.
Unquestionable and unknowable challenges are yet to come, but Matt Brennan is on his way to reaching a goal few imagine and many less achieve. According to Brennan, after he finished the Seven Summits challenge, he plans to scale back his expeditions and focus on motivational speaking and sharing with children what it takes to overcome even the most insurmountable of challenges.
“It was a great trip. I probably wouldn’t do it again,” Brennan concluded.
Between now and his Everest climb in just a handful of weeks he plans to continue physical training and dial in his gear expertise, as he gets ready to tackle the top of the world.
Jarvis Global is an investment advisory firm in Symmes Township, Ohio which offers private portfolio management and retirement services to high net worth individuals.
Matt Brennan, our mountain climber is at it again and Climbing with Reknowned Guide Dave Hahn
Loveland, Ohio– Matt Brennan, local Loveland resident, has been preparing and is poised to achieve becoming the first Cincinnati man to climb of Mt. Vinson, the highest point in Antarctica. The Antarctica climb began this month on November 22, with completion set for December 14.
Located 660 nautical miles from the South Pole, Mt. Vinson is the highest peak in Antarctica and one of the renowned “Seven Summits.”
Climbing Mt. Vinson is all part of Brennan’s plan to climb all of the Seven Summits around the world.
Brennan, 58, set out a little more than a decade ago to climb the “Seven Summits” highest peak on each continent. As of today, he has climbed four of these summits, including Aconcagua in South America, Denali in North America, Mt. Elbrus in Europe, and Kilimanjaro in Africa.
Mount Vinson from northwest at Vinson Plateau (Photo from Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Mt. Vinson will be number five for Brennan in his quest. And upon completion of Mt. Vinson, he will then have only two remaining: Carstenz Pyramid in Australia and the famed Mt. Everest in Asia, which Matt is scheduled to climb in the this Spring.
On this Antarctica expedition, Brennan will be climbing with Dave Hahn, the most experienced and widely regarded Vinson guide in the world, having accomplished 29 summits at Mt. Vinson.
“I had the privilege of climbing Denali with Dave in 2017,” said Brennan. “This time we will be scaling the ‘top of the bottom of the world. Vinson is one the most remote mountains on earth.”
I’m not messing around. I’m going to get this done.
by Sam Smith
Loveland, Ohio – Matt Brennan is a man who sees a challenge and is only met with one option: surmount. His current hurdle? Climb to the tallest points on all seven continents.
He’s conquered South America’s Mt. Aconcagua, North America’s Mt. McKinley, Africa’s Mt. Kilimanjaro, Europe’s Mt. Elbrus. He’s left with only two more.
Up next is Antarctica.
Loveland Resident Matt Brennan is the owner of Loveland Excavating and Paving and founded the Cincinnati Center for Autism. He has had the climbing bug since he was a child, and has only continued to push himself further with each peak.
“I’m just a typical guy. There’s nothing special about me. If you’ve got a goal, reach out there and work hard and achieve it. It can be achieved,” Matt Brennan claimed in a phone interview with Loveland Magazine.
He has climbed four of the famed Seven Summits– the seven highest mountains on each continent. Less than 500 people have completed the challenge, and less than 150 Americans have summited all seven.
Soon, Brennan will climb Mt. Vinson in Antartica, becoming one of the few to make the trek.
Matt Brennan on Mt. Everest
Vinson Massif is one of the most remote places in the world, located 750 miles from the South Pole. At 16,067 feet and located in some of the Earth’s most intense climate conditions, the dangerous ascent has only been attempted by 1,400 climbers since the mountain’s first summit in 1966. From November to January, the sun shines in 24 hours a day and the average temperature is -20° Fahrenheit.
Brennan’s climb will take a minimum of 14 days depending on the weather. He will fly from Puntas Arenas, Chile to Union Glacier, Antarctica and plans to reach the summit of the mountain from November 22 to December 14.
Brennan will be lead by Dave Hahn, one of the most accomplished climbers in the world. He has summited Mt. Vinson more than any other mountaineer– 35 times. Hahn has climbed the mountain in a PBS NOVA documentary and is one of the few frequent and trusted Mt. Vinson guides.
Dave Hahn is also the most prolific western Everest climber, summiting 15 times. He is known for the discovery of the partially mummified body of early Everest explorer George Mallory. According to Brennan, Hahn is one of the most experienced climbers in the world. Brennan previously climbed Denali with Dave Hahn in 2017.
Matt Brennan (left) and Dave Hahn (right) pose on Denali
Through a climbing company called RMI, Hahn reached out to Matt Brennan and asked if he would like to accompany him on a Mt. Vinson climb. His climb will once again be sponsored by Horter Investments, a local investment firm.
“It’d be like Tom Brady calling you up and asking you to play on his touch football team,” Brennan claimed.
Matt Brennan and Dave Hahn descend Denali
Mt. Vinson presents unique challenges. Logistically, Brennan will fly to Chile and land at a polar exploration outpost. From there, he will take an AN-132 transit plane that will land on ice. Vinson is blanketed in glaciers and, although the South Pole is considered a desert, inclement weather is still likely. There is about a 30 day period where the mountain is fit to climb within the entire year. Physically, Matt will carry fifty to sixty pounds of gear and necessities on his back and will haul a sled around forty to fifty pounds.
The extreme conditions present their own difficulties– not just physically.
“Mentally, you have to be able to block out being uncomfortable. But from a gear standpoint, the proper equipment is critical. If you don’t have the proper equipment, your chances of making it are not very good,” Brennan said in a phone interview with Loveland Magazine.
Brennan expected to have claimed five of the seven summits by now but will have to return to Asia for another attempt.
The Antarctica trip, along with a milestone in Matt Brennan’s pursuit of the Seven Summits, also serves as preparation for his second attempt at Mt. Everest.
After intense training, Matt Brennan tried to climb Mt. Everest in April of 2018. However, due to an injury, he did not summit. His injuries have mostly healed, and Brennan cannot be kept from climbing. He plans to utilize his upcoming Mt. Vinson ascent to train further for his upcoming second Everest attempt in spring of 2019.
“I think Dave [Hahn] will really dial me in for Everest. I climbed Denali with Dave and he was relentless on improving my mountaineering skills,” Brennan said.
It’s been only a few months since Brennan returned to Loveland from his attempt to surmount Everest, and he already has caught the climbing bug again. Rather than take a year off between Everest attempts, he has opted in the meantime to persevere and take on the South Pole.
“I just don’t believe in quitting. You can’t quit. Everest is reachable, I just couldn’t reach it on one leg. For me it’s always been about goals and reaching those goals[…] If you don’t fail, you haven’t set your goals high enough,” Brennan said.
Matt Brennan must summit Vinson and Everest, and then complete a day hike of Mount Kosciuszko in Australia in order to put his name among the ranks of the few skilled climbers who have conquered the Seven Summits. He hopes to finish the challenge by August of 2019.
The Seven Summits (plus Mauna Kea and Mt. Kosciuszko). CC via the Wikimedia Foundation.
“It’s become… not an obsession… but I’m going to do these. I’m very goal-oriented. I’m not messing around. I’m going to get this done,” Brennan concluded.
Jarvis Global is an investment advisory firm in Symmes Township, Ohio which offers private portfolio management and retirement services to high net worth individuals.